New Delhi

We arrived at New Delhi airport around midnight to find several planeloads of passengers already queuing at the outdated immigration control centre, with more planeloads arriving. Thousands of passengers were snaking around barriers, which took us about 2 hours to clear. Pity those families who had small children as the immigration staff would not allow any special lane.

Our first day took us out on tour with the tour guide to the Jama Masjid (Old Mosque) near the Red Fort, Ghandi's memorial, the Lotus Temple, India Gate and Parliament area, out to the ancient Qutb Minar and Humayun's Tomb - a full day sightseeing.

To the left is India Gate.

Not much to see in the evenings, but a visit to the market or hunting for a restaurant kept us busy. We also had the time to visit a friend's family home on the outskirts of Delhi, which gave us the chance to see more of the outer areas.

For New Delhi tourist notes - click here.

At the Jama Masjid

View of the Old Mosque

Architecture at Old Mosque

Mosque Arches

Colourful Saris at Humayun's Tomb

Humayun's Tomb

Lotus Temple

Auto Ricksaw

At Ghandi's Tomb

Qutb Minar Courtyard

Ancient Tomb

More Details at Old Mosque

Humayun's Tomb from Arch

Arch Recess at Humayun's Tomb

Ancient Tomb Architecture

Qutb Minar Tower

Agra

Agra was reached after a 4 to 5 hour drive from Delhi, arriving on the outskirts to visit Akbar's Tomb, one of the earliest Moghul ruler's. On our trip out to dinner, we were met at a restaurant entrance by a father and son playing and dancing to traditional music - see left photo.

Next morning we were up before the crack of dawn to arrive at the entrance to the Taj Mahal - by 6am there is already a large queue forming and the security check on the ladies line takes forever - lots of dangerous goodies in their bags!! However, it is worth the wait and the early morning sunrise at the Taj is certainly the highlight of our trip. Pity they still maintain a stupid regulation that no video cameras are allowed in - yet digi cameras take perfect video!

Our initial walk around the Taj was accompanied by our excellent tour guide Ali, well recommended. We were then left free to walk around the grounds and take lots of photos. After the initial opening crowd, it felt amazingly empty, the open spaces making a peaceful setting.

Following the Taj, the trip to Agra Fort was also excellent, again a tour guide by Ali then another longer round on our own.

On our way out of Agra, we visited the ancient capital centre of Fathephur Sikri.

For Agra Tourist Notes - click here.

Classic Pose at  'Lady Diana' Bench

Classic Taj on Centre

(No water in pool - cleaning lady pulled the plug)

Taj at Sunrise

Taj Background

Arch View of Taj

View thru Arch of Mosque

The 'Back Door' View

View from Agra Fort Window

View from East Side

Garden View

Garden View

East Side

Looking back to Entrance

In Front of Taj

Uplifting the Taj

Garden Setting

Poolside View

Akbar???

Mumtaz???

Architectural Detail of Corner

Sunrise Silhouette

River Scene at Mosque Corner

Corner area of Mosque

Antique Style

Taj Mahal View on Riverside - From Agra Fort

Fathephur Sikri Mosque and White Marble Mosque

Fathephur Sikri

Fathephur Sikri

Fathephur Sikri

Fathephur Sikri

Fathephur Sikri - Camel Stables

Agra Fort Courtyard

Mumtaz on the Agra Fort Balcony

Agra Fort

Akbar's Tomb

Fathephur Sikri

Fathephur Sikri

Old Lady at Fathephur Sikri

Akbar's Tomb

Arches at Agra Fort

Agra Fort

Taj seen through Screen at Agra Fort

Agra Fort Entrance Tower

Agra Fort Courtyard

Taj seen through Arches at Agra Fort

Agra Fort Door

Agra Fort Screen Detail

Agra Fort Column Head Detail

Taj seen through Screen at Agra Fort

Children Contemplating

Jaipur

A long road trip from Agra to Jaipur was made much longer by the scandalous condition of the main highway linking the two cities. Most of the road was damaged by flooding months previously and the road base destroyed. Minor repairs were being made by hand labour, with little evidence of mechanized equipment. At one point it gave us a chance for a wild detour through the countryside and through a village which had a mini festival going on - interesting scenes caught on video.

For Jaipur, we had made our own hotel arrangements and booked into the umaid bhawan heritage hotel, based on Internet recommendations - check out the website at www.umaidbhawan.com - and found this to be the best hotel of out trip - so we would highly recommend it to any travellers to Jaipur.

The main sites in Jaipur include the Royal Palace and Museum within the Pink City, the 'Hawa Mahal' or Palace of the Winds (photo opposite), the Royal Observatory, Amber Fort on a hill outside the new City with the Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors) and other buildings inside, and a trip to Maotha Lake and the Palace abandoned at the centre of the lake.

For Jaipur tourist notes - click here.

Colourful Sari Ladies at Amber Fort

Royal Palace with Observatory

Palace of Winds

Detail from Sheesh Mahal

Detail at Amber Fort

Royal Observatory

Sheesh Mahal from Arch View

Detail from Sheesh Mahal

At Jaipur Hotel

At Jaipur Hotel, our room was at top

With Trusty Driver

umaid bhawan heritage hotel

New Delhi Notes

RED FORT (LAL QILA)

Place : Delhi
Best Time to visit : October to March
Significance: Prime Minister address on Independence day (15th August) every year.
Timings : Daily sunrise to sunset

Note: Many tours do not include the Red Fort, claiming it is closed to the public - our tour only drove past.

The Red Fort or the Lal Quila, situated on the western bank of the river Yamuna  forms the majestic centerpiece of Mughal Emperor Shahajahan's medieval walled city 'Shah Jahanabad' (Old Delhi). This sandstone citadel encompasses grand audience halls, marble palaces ornamented with exquisite pietra dura once embedded with precious stones, a market place where the royalty used to shop, a mosque, gardens with marbled fountains, plazas, baths etc. The Red Fort is enclosed by nearly 2 1/2 km of battlement walls which vary in height from 18.5 m (60ft) at its highest watch towers on the river side to 33m on the city side and is surrounded by a 9m deep moat. It was here, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India, unfurled the Indian flag on 15 August 1947 commemorating the end of the British colonial rule. Every year on Independence day, the Prime minister addresses a huge crowd assembled in the Maidan (ground) overlooking the fort, from its Lahore gate. 

Shahjahan, started the construction of this massive fort in 1638, when he shifted the capital from Agra to Delhi. The fort was completed along with the huge city of Shajahanabad after nine years on 16th April 1648. The city was laid out with wide roads, residential quarters, bazars, mosques and enclosed in a rubble built wall with 14 gates, some of which still exists. The main street was Chandni Chouk with a tree lined canal flowing down its centre and the remarkable buildings which showed off the magnificence of Mughal style architecture were the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India and the Red fort. Now Chandni Chowk is a crowded colourful market bustling with shops, craftsmen's workshops, hotels, mosques and temples. 

The fort got its name from the ample use of red sandstone walls and is octagon in shape. The two main gateways are the Lahore Gate and the Delhi Gate. The entrance is through the Lahore Gate which forms a part of a massive stone fortification and is made up of dull pink sandstone. The path leads to the vaulted shopping arcade known as Chatta Chowk, lined with shops originally where the royal household used to shop for silks, brocades, velvets, gold and silver ware, jewellery, gems etc. The arcade was also known as Meena bazar which offered exclusive shopping, just for ladies of the court on Thursdays. Today the shops cater to tourists with souvenirs, antiques etc and the upper levels are the quarters of Indian Army families.

At the end of the Chatta Chowk is the Naubat Khana (Drum house) where ceremonial music was played by the musicians to glorify the emperor and special tunes were played to announce the arrival of the royalty and important dignitaries. The drum house has four floors and it also served as a gate house 'Hathi Pol' where the visiting dignitaries had to leave their horses and elephants. The red sandstone walls are beautifully decorated with floral designs originally painted in gold with an inner courtyard surrounded by galleries. But the galleries were removed as the fort underwent a number of changes when it became the British Army Headquarters. Just above the Naubat Khana is the Indian War Memorial Museum which has a collection of armours, guns, swords and other items related to war. There is the Swatantra Sangrama Sangrahalaya  (Museum of the Independence movement) displaying letters, photos, newspaper cuttings located amongst the army buildings just before Naubat Khana.

From Naubhat Khana, a path runs east through wide lawns to the Diwan-i-Am (Public Audience hall). In this elegant hall, the Emperor sat daily on a royal marble throne with decorative marble panels behind, that sparkled with inlaid precious stones to hear complaints or disputes from his subjects and to deal with administrative matters. Some of these panels, removed by British soldiers during the Indian Mutiny of 1857, were discovered  in London and restored 50 years later by Lord Curzon. The floral patterns that are still there reflect the high degree of skill of the Mughal artisans. Beyond Diwan-i-Am, entrance was allowed only to the royalty. 

There is a large formal garden and a row of five small palaces along the east wall of the fort, behind the Diwan-i-Am. The palaces were beautifully decorated with silver ceilings ornamented with golden flowers and crowned with gilded turrets, delicately painted and decorated with intricate pieces of mirrors. Between the garden and the palaces there was a stream flowing Nahr-i-Bihisht (Stream of Paradise) with a network of lotus shaped marble fountains. The palace on the extreme south is the Mumtaz Mahal (Palace of Jewels), now the Red Fort Museum of Archaeology, (Open daily except Fri 9am-5pm) with six apartments displaying relics from the Mughal Period including numerous paintings, weapons, textiles, carpets, ornate chess sets, hookahs and metal work. 

Close to the Mumtaz Mahal is the Rang Mahal ('Palace of Colors') once elaborately painted, where the emperors main wife resided and where the emperor ate most of his meals. The stream ran through the palace and ended in the lotus shaped central pool in the marble floor originally with an ivory fountain in the center. Hundreds of small mirrors were set into the ceilings of apartments on either sides known as the Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors). 

On the northern side of Rang Mahal, is the Khas Mahal, the exclusive three roomed palace of the emperor. The southern chamber is the Tosh Khana (robe room), has a beautiful marble filigree screen on its north wall, carved with the scales of justice. Viewing the screen from the north you'll see suns surrounding the scales, but from the south these look more like moons. In the center is the Khwabgah (Palace of dreams) with an octagonal tower projecting over the east wall of the Khas Mahal where the emperor used to appear daily before throngs gathered on the riverbanks below. In 1911, when Delhi was declared capital, King George V and Queen Mary sat in the balcony here as the Durbar celebrated their coronation. The north chamber is the Tasbih Khana where the emperor used to worship privately.

 The majestic Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of private audience), made of marble was where the Emperor held private meetings and received important guests seated on his priceless Peacock Throne. It is said that the throne which took 7 years to make, was built out of solid gold embedded with precious stones such as sapphires, rubies, emeralds, pearls and diamonds and had figures of peacocks standing behind. The throne was carried away to Iran by Nadir Shah when he sacked Delhi in 1739. Later it was broken up by Nadir Shah's assassins in 1747. Such was the splendor of those days that inscribed on the walls of the Diwan-i-Khas is the words of the famous Persian poet, Amir Khusrau - "If there is a paradise on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here". But today, the Diwan-i-Khas is only a pale shadow of its original glory. 

Close to the Diwan-i-Khas is the Hammams or the Royal Baths with three apartments surmounted by domes, where royalty took hot saunas and perfumed baths. The apartments on either side had hot and cold baths and are separated by corridors with canals to carry water to each room. The room in the centre has three fountain basins which emitted rose water and it is reputed that four tonnes of wood were required to heat the water. The floors of these apartments are built with marble and were inlaid with floral patterns of multicoloured stones. The baths are closed to the public. 

Next to the Hammam lies the Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque), built in 1662 by Aurangzeb (Shahjahan's son) for his personal use. The prayer-hall of the mosque stands on a raised platform and is inlaid with outlines of 'Musallas' (mats for prayers) in black marble. The small mosque is completely enclosed, made of polished marble with some exquisite decoration and has three domes. One peculiar thing is that the interior and exterior walls are not aligned with each other, while the exterior walls are in symmetry with the rest of the fort, the inner walls are positioned in such a way for the mosque to be correctly facing Mecca. 

Shahi Burj (Royal Pavilion) the three storied octagonal tower, situated on the northeastern edge of the fort was the emperor's private working place. It was from the pavilion next to the tower that the stream begins flowing south along the royal terrace to the royal baths and the palaces. The tower is closed to the public. The Yamuna river used to lap the walls of the tower but now has retreated some distance away.  

Qutab Minar,

Place : Delhi
Significance: Highest stone tower in India
Best Time to visit: October to March
Timings : Sunrise to Sunset

Qutab Minar, the 239ft sandstone tower is an Indo-Islamic architectural wonder of ancient India. This magnificent tower of victory stands in the Qutab Complex located at Aurabindo Marg, near Mehrauli, 14 Km south of Connaught place in Delhi. The complex has a number of other important monuments- the gateway built in 1310, the Alai Darwaza, Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque; one of the oldest existing mosques in India, the tombs of Altamish, Alauddin Khalji and Imam Zamin; the 2000 year old 7m high Iron Pillar- the Alai Minar; another tower 27m high, the Madrasa or School, great screen of Qutbuddin Aibak in the mosque etc.

King Qutubuddin Aibak of Slave dynasty laid the foundation of the Qutab Minar in 1199, adjoining the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque, to proclaim  the victory of Islam, after the defeat of the last Hindu kingdom in Delhi. It was the Afghan, Muhammad of Ghur who ousted the last Hindu king Prithviraj Chauhan in AD 1192, but he returned to his country leaving Qutbuddin Aibak as his viceroy. In 1206, on his masters death, Aibak crowned himself as the Sultan of Delhi.  

 The word 'Qutab Minar' means 'axis minaret'. The tower which  dominates the countryside for miles around has five storeys, each marked by a projecting balcony. The tower was built in three stages. Qutab-ud-Din completed the first storey. Second, third and the fourth were completed by his successor and son-in -law, Illtutmish in 1230. The minar was first struck by lightening in AD 1368 and the fallen top storey was replaced by two storeys's, the fourth and the fifth in 1370 AD by Feroz Shah Tughlaq (AD 1351-88). 

Qutab Minar with a height of 72.5m (239ft), is the highest stone tower in India and has a diametre of 14.32 metres at the base and about 2.75 metres at the top. The first three storeys are made of red sandstone and are heavily indented with different styles of fluting, alternately round and angular on the  bottom floor, round on the second and angular on the third. The fourth and fifth floors are made of marble and sandstone.

The decoration of the Qutab Minar is consistently Islamic in character from base to top; though the somewhat hybrid style of Firoz Shah's later additions is noticeably distinct. Numerous inscriptions in Arabic and Nagari characters are seen as wide encircling bands in the plain fluted masonry of the Minar. This inscriptions reveal the history of Qutub, from its commencement in AD1199 to its repairs in between.. 

There is a door on the northern side, leading inside the tower to a spiral stairway with 379 steps that winds its way up to the balcony in each floor and culminating in a platform at the top. The intricate balconies held together by stalactite vaulting technique and patterned with honey combing is a special feature of the minar.

The minar has survived a series of lightening bolts and earthquakes during the past centuries. After the first lighting strike way back in AD1368 knocking off the top storey and two floors replaced instead, by Firoz Shah Tuglaq, inscriptions indicate that further repairs were done by Sultan Sikander Lodi in 1503. Later in 1803, the cupola on the top was thrown down and the whole pillar was seriously injured by an earthquake. It was repaired by Major R. Smith of the Royal Engineers who restored the Qutub Minar in 1829 replacing the cupola with a Bengal style chhattri. The chhattri was removed in 1848, by the Viceroy Lord Hardinge as it was criticized as not keeping in with the architectural style of the rest of the minar. Now it stands to the left of the entry path and is known as Smith's folly.

Today, this impressively ornate tower has a slight tilt, but otherwise has worn the centuries remarkably well. The staircase inside the tower to the balconies has been closed following an accident in early 1980's when a party of school girls panicked when the lights failed and a stampede led to a number of deaths.

Humayun's Tomb - In our View - A Must See

The Humayun's tomb lies at  5Km southeast of Connaught place.  High rubble-built walls enclose a square garden.  The lofty mausoleum is located in the centre of the enclosure and rises from a podium with arched openings. The structure is built with red sandstone, but white and black marble has been used to relieve the monotony, the latter largely in the borders.

The tomb was built by Humayun's senior widow Hamida Begum, popularly known as Haji Begum, nine years after his death in 1565. It is the first substantial example of the Mughal architecture, with high arches and double dome, which occurs here for the first time in India.  The design represents the first 'tomb-in-a garden' complex in India. Open daily from sunrise to sunset,  Entry free on Fridays.

India Gate

In the memory of 90,000 soldiers of the Indian armies killed during First world war, a dominating stone structure was built at the east end of the Rajpat. The names of these soldiers are inscribed on the stone of the 42 metre high triumphal arch which stand on a base of  Bharatpur stone and rises in stages. It was designed by Edward Lutyens and took 10 years to complete. Its foundation stone was laid on 10th February 1921 by the Duke of Connaught. There is a Amar Jawan Jyoti  under the Arch  to commemorate the 'Indian Armed Forces' losses in the Indo Pakistan War of 1971.  This simple monument is helmet on the built of a rifle surrounded by 4 eternal flames. 

Raj Ghat 
This simple square platform of black marble on the banks of the river Yamuna marks the place where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated. His last words "He Ram" are inscribed on this platform which is surrounded by a serene garden. 

Bahai's House of Worship; Lotus Temple: The design of this Bahais house of worship is inspired by Lotus the exquisitely beautiful flower and symbol of purity which is associated with the worship and religion in India. The lotus shaped temple is surrounded by nine large pools of water which not only enhances the beauty of the temple but also plays a significant role in the natural cooling system.

Connaught Place

Connaught Place, an immense shopping complex built by the British, comprises concentric circles containing shops and boutiques that display everything from gold and diamond ornaments to electronic goods, hotels and restaurants etc. In the center of the complex, there is a park ornamented with flowering trees and fountains. This is one of the major shopping centers in Delhi and the best place to start browsing are the fixed price Government Emporia of many Indian States located close to this complex on Baba Kharak Singh Marg. There is also an air-conditioned underground market called Palika Bazaar close by. Closed on Sundays.

AGRA Notes

Place : Agra, Uttar Pradesh
Significance : Famous as one of the wonders of the world
Best Time to visit :  November to February
Timings : 6am to 7pm daily except Monday, no entry fee on Friday.

Taj Mahal, the breathtakingly elegant monument is one of the most beautiful masterpieces of architecture found in the world. Listed as the seventh wonder of the world and a World heritage Monument by the Unesco, this perfectly symmetrical dream in  marble is located in the city of Agra, in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, on the banks of the Yamuna River.

Taj Mahal is famous as an enduring monument to love. It was built by the fifth Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan as the final resting place for his second wife, Mumtaz Mahal. History says that Arjuman Banu, the daughter of Jahangir's (Father of Shah Jehan) Prime Minister, supposedly captured the heart of Prince Khurram (Shah Jahan) the minute he saw her. In 1612, at the age of 21, she married him and became Shah Jehan's beloved consort Mumtaz Mahal. Mumtaz used to accompany in his military campaigns.  She was his comrade, his advisor and inspired him to acts of charity and benevolence towards the weak and the needy, but even this qualities were diminished by the love that bound her to Shah Jehan. She bore her husband 14 children. It was in 1630, in Burhanpur, while accompanying her husband on a military campaign she died giving birth to her fourteenth child, at the age of 39. On her deathbed, it is said that Mumtaz asked the king to build a monument so beautiful to show the world how much they loved each other. When her body was brought to Agra, she was laid to rest in a temporary crypt in a garden along the banks of the Yamuna River. The foundation of her mausoleum was laid in 1631. It is also said that his wife's death left Shah Jehan so heartbroken that he locked himself in his private chambers for a month, and when he finally emerged his hair had turned white. 

Construction of the Taj Mahal began in the same year and was completed after 22 years in 1653 at a cost of 32 Million Rupees. Twenty thousand workmen and master craftsmen- from Persia, France, Iran, Italy and Turkey worked on the building. Although no one knows who planned the Taj, the name of a Persian architect, Ustad Isa, was involved the construction of this marble monument.

The material red sandstone, silver and gold, carnelian and jasper, moonstone and jade, lapiz lazuli and coral were  brought in from all over India and central Asia and white Makrana marble from Jodhpur took a fleet of 1000 elephants to transport. Precious stones for the inlay came from Baghdad, Punjab, Igypt, Russia, Golconda, China, Afghanistan, Ceylon, Indian ocean and Persia.  The unique mughal style architecture combines elements and styles of Persian, Central Asian, and Islamic architecture. 

The architectural complex of the Taj Mahal (590x300m)mainly consists of the Darwaza or main gateway, the Bageecha or symmetrically planned garden(300x300m), the Masjid or mosque, the Naqqar Khana or rest house, and the Rauza or the Taj Mahal mausoleum. The actual Tomb is situated inside the Taj.   

The main entrance is from the west, but there are also two other entrances from the east and from the south. The majestic main gateway is a large three-storey red sandstone structure, 50ft wide and 100ft high with an octagonal central chamber with a vaulted roof and with smaller rooms on each side, completed in 1648. The gateway consists of lofty central arch with doubles storeyed wings on either side. Above the central portal on the north and south sides, there is a series of 11 attached chattiris (umbrellas) with marble cupolas, flanked by pinnacles.The walls are inscribed with verses from the Quran in Arabic and is done in black calligraphy.  A fine feature of the gateway is that the lettering appears to be the same size from top to bottom. This was done by heightening the letters as the distance from the eye increased. The small domed pavilions on top are Hindu in style and signify regality. The gate was originally lined with silver, now replaced with copper and decorated with 1,000 nails whose heads were contemporary silver coins. 

The ornamental gardens through which the path lead are planned along classical Mughal 'char bagh' style.  Two marble canals studded with fountains, lined with cypress trees emanating from the central, raised pool  cross in the centre of the garden dividing it into four equal squares. In each square there are 16 flower beds, making a total of 64 with around 400 plants in each bed. The feature to be noted is that the garden is laid out in such a way as to maintain perfect symmetry. The channels with a perfect reflection of the Taj, used to be stocked with colourful fish and the gardens with beautiful birds. To the west is a small museum that is open daily except Monday and Friday between 10am and 5pm. This museum contains original architectural drawings of the Taj, information's on the semi precious stones used in its construction, and some celadon plates, said to split into pieces or change colour if the food served on them contains poison. Entry to the museum is free. 

Taj Mahal itself is situated about 900 ft away at the north end of the garden and stands on two bases, one of sandstone and above it, is a raised, square platform (186 x 186 feet) worked into a black and white chessboard design and topped by a huge blue-veined white marble terrace. Tall, white minarets four of them (41.6m high) grace each corner of the platform. Each has a deliberate slant outwards- the South west by 20 cm, the others by 5cm.On the East and west sides of the tomb are identical red sandstone buildings. On the west is a mosque. It is common in Islam to build one next to a tomb. It sanctifies the area and provides a place of worship. The replica on the other sides is known as the Jawab (answer).  This cannot be used for prayer as it faces away from Mecca. 

The central structure or the mausoleum on the platform is square with beveled corners. Each side is 56.6 m long with a large central arch flanked by two pointed arches. Each corner has small domes while in the centre there is the main double dome topped by a brass finial. The exterior ornamentation is calligraphy, beautifully carved panels in bas relief and superb inlay work in the form of immaculately proportioned large floral tendrils which cover the surface of the white marble

The main chamber inside is octagonal with a high domed ceiling designed to echo chants from the Quran and melodies of musicians. In the middle of this chamber contains false tombs of Mumtaz and Shah Jehan, who actually were laid to rest in precise duplicates in a lower-burial vault. The tombs are surrounded by a marble screen, cut so finely that it seems almost translucent, scatters speckled light around. Both tombs are exquisitely inlaid and decorated with precious stones which are the finest in Agra. The 99 names of Allah adorn the top of Mumtaz's tomb, and set into Shah Jahan's tomb is a pen box, the hallmark of a male ruler. 

Taj Mahal's pure white marble shimmers silver in the moonlight, glows softly pink at dawn, and at close of day reflects the fiery tints of the setting sun. Perhaps the best viewing of the Taj Mahal is from a little octagonal tower in the Agra Fort across the River Yamuna. It was here that the Emperor Shah Jahan spent his last days as a prisoner of his son and usurper to the empire, Aurangazeb, gazing at the tomb of his favourite wife Mumtaz. 

AGRA FORT

Place : Agra, Uttar Pradesh
Best time to visit : November to February
Timings : Open daily from 6 am to 5.30 pm 

This great monument of red sandstone dominating a bend in the river Yamuna, 2km northwest of Taj Mahal was constructed by the Mughals during 1565-1571. It was Emperor Akbar who laid the foundation of this majestic citadel in 1565. The fort was ready by 1571 period of Shahjahan, Akbar's grandson. The fort is crescent shaped, flattened on the east with a long, nearly straight wall facing the river. Fort's colossal double walls rise 69 ft in height and measure 2.5 km in circumference encircled by a moat and contain a maze of buildings which form a small city within a city. The fort contains splendid mosques and palaces in red sandstone and white marble built by two generations of creative builders during the time of Akbar and later Jehangir and Shahjahan. 

The wall has 2 gates, the Delhi Gate and the Amar Singh Gate. The original and grandest entrance was through the Delhi Gate, which leads to the inner portal called the Hathi Pol or Elephant Gate. But now the entrance to the fort is only through the Amar Singh Gate. Public access is limited to the southern part of the fort which includes nearly all the buildings of tourist  interest.  

Jehangiri Mahal: This is the first notable building as one enters through the Amar Singh Gate and emerges out of the passage. Situated north of the gate at the end of a spacious lawn, the Jehangir's palace was built by Akbar as a residence for his son Jehangir. The largest private residence in the fort, it is a blend of Hindu and Central Asian architectural styles. The Mahal is reached through an impressive gateway and its inner courtyard consists of a two storey facade of beautiful halls, profuse carvings on stone, heavy brackets exquisitely carved with animal and floral motifs, piers and cross beams with remnants of the rich gilded decorations which once covered much of the structure. There is a verandah with slender pillars on the eastern front facing the river front. This is the most important building remaining from Akbars period as his successors demolished several of Akbar's red sand structures replacing them with marble one's. To the right of Jahangiri Mahal is a simple palace of Akbar's favourite queen Jodha Bai.

Khas Mahal: Built entirely of marble by Shah Jahan in 1637, the Khas Mahal or the Private Palace demonstrates distinctive Islamic-Persian features. The enclosure has three pavilions overlooking the Yamuna, with a fountain opposite the central pavilion. The central pavilion an airy edifice, used by the emperor as a sleeping chamber has three arches on each side, five in front, and two turrets rising out of the roof. It overlooks the Angoori Bagh (grape garden). The Mahal is flanked by two golden (copper) pavilions, one with white marble and was supposedly decorated with gold leaf, while the other is made with red stone, which were meant for the prominent ladies of the harem. The Khaas Mahal provides the most successful example of painting on a white marble surface.

On the three sides of the Grape garden are residential quarters of women.

Musamman Burj: On the left of the Khas Mahal is the Musamman Burj, an octagonal tower with an open pavilion build by Shahjahan for his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. It is made of delicate marble lattices with ornamental niches for the ladies of the court to gaze out, unseen. The chamber with a marble dome on top, is surrounded by a verandah with a beautiful carved fountain in the center. The tower looks out over the River Yamuna and is traditionally considered to have one of the most poignant views of the Taj. This is where Shah Jahan spent his last few years as a captive of his son Aurangazeb and where he lay on his death bed, gazing at the Taj. 

Diwani-i-Khas: Diwan-I-Khas (hall of private audience) built by Shahjahan in 1636–37 was used to receive kings, dignitaries and ambassadors. It is a three sided pavilion with a terrace of fine proportions. Outside the structure is the marble throne terrace, where a pair of thrones were kept. The black throne belonged to Jehangir. Presently, entry is not allowed inside Diwan-i-Khas. 

Sheesh Mahal: Opposite to the Mussaman Burj and just below the Diwan-i-Khas hall, at the northeastern end of the Khas Mahal courtyard is the Sheesh Mahal or the Glass Palace. It is believed to have been the royal  dressing room and its walls are inlaid with tiny mirrors, one of the best specimens of glass-mosaic decoration in India. The Sheesh Mahal is composed of two large halls of equal size, each measuring 11.15m x 6.40 m. Both are connected in the centre by a broad arched opening and on the sides by two narrow passages.

Macchhi Bhawan: Opposite to the Diwan-i-Khas is the Macchhi Bhawan, a grand enclosure meant for harem functions. The emperor sat on the white marble platform of the Diwani-i-Khas facing this courtyard. It once contained pools and marble fountains which were carried off by Jat Raja Surajmal to his palace at Deeg.  On another side stands a small mosque built for Shahjahan by his son Aurangzeb.

Hammam-i-Shahi: To the right of Diwan-i-khas is the Hammam-i-Shahi or the Shah Burj. It is an airy apartment, attached to the residential quarters which was used as a summer retreat. 

Diwan-i-Am: The Hall of Public Audiences, made of red sandstone, was constructed by Shahjahan. It is here the emperor met officials and commoners and listened to the petitioners. The women of the palace could watch the court without being seen by others from the pavilion through jali (lattice) screens.  The open sided, cusped arched hall (64x23m) built of plaster on red stone, is very impressive.  The throne alcove of richly decorated white marble completed after 7 years work in 1634 was used to house the famous Peacock Throne, later shifted to Delhi by Aurangazeb and was finally carried away to Iran.

The Nagina Masjid or the gem mosque is a private mosque raised by Shah Jahan with typical cusped arches for ladies of the court.  There is Mina bazar for the royal ladies to buy things from the marble balcony beneath the Nagina Masjid. 

The Moti Masjid near the Nagina Masjid is a perfectly proportioned pearl mosque built in white marble. This grand mosque has three domes in white marble raising their heads over the red sandstone wall. Visit : 7- 6 PM

THE TAJ MAHAL MUSEUM

It is a small museum situated on the ground of Taj near the mosque.  It contains the  memorabilia from the Mogul period and historical back ground of Taj Mahal.  The paintings of Shajahan and Mumtaz Mahal can also be seen. Visit from Saturday to Thursday. Friday is holiday. Time from 0800  to 1700.

FATEHPUR SIKRI  It is  at 37 km south west of Agra, about 12 Kms in circumference, on a rocky ridge that over look the village of Sikri.  Akbar built his capital at this village.  The massive walls surround its three sides and the forth side is protected by a lake.  Akbar ruled here  for only 15 years.  He shifted his city to Lahore and eventually back to Agra. Its styles still reflects his foresight and wisdom.

The Buland Darwaza (Victory Gateway) the main entrance was built by Akbar after he conquered Gujarat. The gate is 134 ft high and is approached by a base of steps which is another 34 ft.  The Jama Masjid (Imperial Mosque) is at the right side of Buland Darwaza built around 1571 and designed to hold 10,000 worshipers. The decorations in the pillars are made in Hindu elements.  The Salim Chisti (Saint) tomb is at the courtyard of Jama Masjid surrounded by walls of marble lace. The saint  blessed Akbar  with a much wanted male heir. Due to this the people  come here and tie strings on the marble for the same blessings which he bestowed the Akbar.

 Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience) It is 350 ft long, consist of cloisters surrounding a courtyard that contains the Hall of judgment.  It was here that Akbar handed down the decisions, as the chief justice of his subjects, on various disputes, by sitting on his throne  flanked by marble.  

Jodh Bai's Palace This palace was built for Akbar's Hindu wife, Jodh Bai. It architecture is a blend of  Hindu and Muslim styles. The Hawa Mahal (The wind palace)  walled by red stone screens is upstairs.  The ladies of the court could peek outside unseen from here.

JAIPUR Notes

Amber Fort

Place : Amber, 11km from Jaipur, Rajasthan
Highlight : Exquisite Seesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors)
Best time to visit : October to February
Timings : Open 9 a.m - 16.30 pm

Ambar palace is situated in Amber, the former capital of the Kachhwaha Rajputs on  a hillside overlooking Maotha lake, 11 km from Jaipur on the Delhi - Jaipur road. Its construction was started by Raja Man Singh I, army commander of Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1592 and was completed by Mirza Raja Jai Singh and Sawai Jai Singh, over a period of about two centuries. It is a classic fusion of Mughal and Hindu architecture, built in red sandstone and white marble.

The palace or the royal apartments lies inside the massive Amber fort complex with gateways, gardens, halls, stairways, pillared pavilions, temples and palaces. Some of the noteworthy architectural marvels in the complex are the 'Diwan-E-Khas', the 'Sheesh Mahal' and the 'Jai Mandir' with exquisite mirror work, the 'Diwan-E-Aam', the 'Sukh Niwas', the Shila Mata Temple and Kali temple and the well laid out garden the 'Kesar Kyari'.

The fort is entered through the 'Dil-e-Aaram' Garden, laid out in the traditional Mughal style. An imposing flight of stairs leads to the 'Diwan-E-Am' (hall of public audience) which has latticed galleries and double row of columns each having a capital in the shape of elephants on the top. To the right are steps that lead to the small Kali Temple. Maharaja Man Singh was a great devotee of Goddess Kali and prayed to the goddess for victory during battles. The temple has huge doors made of silver. The larger white marble Shila Mata temple, has the image of  Goddess Kali, brought by Raja Man Singh from Jessore in East Bengal (now Bangladesh).

The emperors apartments lies on a higher terrace beyond a two tiered decorative gateway, 'Ganesh Pol, covered with elegant frescoes and pavilions having fascinating jali (Lattice worked) screens. The 'Jai Mandir' (hall of victory) has a glittering ceiling with mirror pieces on stucco  and elegant inlaid panels. The 'Diwan- E- Khas', hall of private audience is similar in ornamentation to Jai Mandir and the 'Seesh Mahal',  hall of Mirrors known for its craftsmanship in mirrors, is the most spectacular of the lot. Thousands of mirror pieces adorn the walls and the ceiling that, any streak of light makes them sparkle and illuminates the entire room. In front of the Jai Mandir is the 'Sukh Niwas' (hall of pleasure) with a door made of sandalwood, inlaid with ivory with a channel running through, which formerly carried cool water acting as an air cooler.

The zenana or the women's apartments and frescoes depicting Krishna Leela scenes surround a spectacular courtyard. There are private chambers from where the royal women could watch the proceedings of the royal court in privacy. The well-proportioned garden, Kesar Kyari in the center of Maotha lake and the Dilaram Bagh at its north end provide a spectacular view of the palaces.

City Palace

Place : Jaipur, Rajasthan
Highlight : Chandra Mahal 
Best time to visit : October to February
Timings : Open 0930 - 1630 hrs.

Located in the capital of Rajasthan, the City Palace of Jaipur or the main palace is an imposing blend of traditional Rajasthan and Mughal architecture. The vast palace complex occupies one seventh of the walled city of Jaipur. Originally built by Maharaja Jai Singh II of the Kachhwaha clan of Rajputs, additions have been made to the palace complex by many of his successors. 

The complex is divided into a series of courtyards, sprawling gardens and buildings. It is home to several palatial structures like the Chandra Mahal, Mubarak Mahal, Badal Mahal, Shri Govind Dev Temple and the City Palace Museum.

In the first courtyard is the 'Mubarak Mahal', built by Maharaja Madho Singh II in the late 19th century. The Mubarak Mahal, or the Auspicious Palace, contains the textile section of the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum. There is a magnificent gateway with a grand door in brass opening to a stately courtyard. There lies the Diwan-I-Khas or 'Hall of Private Audience'- an open hall with a double row of columns with scalloped arches. On display are the two largest silver vessels in the world figured in the Guinness Book of World Records. These were used for carrying water from the holy Ganges for personal use, by Madho Singh II on his journey to England. Across the paved square, with its intricate decorations in deep red and gold, Afghan and Persian carpets, miniature paintings, astronomical manuscripts in Persian and Sanskrit lies the 'Diwan-E-Aam' or the 'Hall of Public Audience'. At the other corner is the gateway Ridhi Sidhi Pol, with four small doorways decorated with motifs depicting the four seasons. 

To the north-west is the graceful seven storeyed 'Chandra Mahal', or the Moon  Palace, home to the present Maharaja of Jaipur; Bhavani Singh, providing a fine view of the gardens and the city. Paintings, floral decorations, mirror walls and ceilings in the traditional style adorn the palace. Each storey has a distinctive name and is a place of sheer beauty and luxury. The ground and first floor of the Chandra Mahal, form the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum. The museum has an extensive collection of art, carpets, enamelware and 15th century weapons. The paintings include miniatures of Rajasthani, Persian and Mughal schools. A section of museum also contains dresses and costumes of the former Maharajas and Maharanis of Jaipur. 

'Sukh Nivas' or Hall of rest holds the drawing and dining room of the Maharaja, furnished  with Mughal miniatures, European silver, glass dining tables and peep holes decorated with gold leafs, for ventilation.  On the fourth floor of the 'Chandra Mahal' is the 'Shobha Nivas' or Hall of Beauty with mirror encrusted walls having exquisite blue tiled dadoes and glittering gold leaf and mica decoration.  When the room was lit after dark the Maharajas could enjoy a breathtaking spectacle of the room bursting into a thousand flickering images. The Shobha Nivas and the Sukh Nivas is still occupied by the present Maharaja. The fifth floor is the 'Chhavi Nivas' or Hall of Images, the maharajas retreat in the rainy season, with a polished floor of eggshell stucco and blue and white painted walls. The sixth floor with its mirrored ceiling and stucco floor has rows of double columns through which one can have a magnificent view of the rugged hills. The uppermost storey is called the 'Mukut Mahal' or the Crown Building.

Opposite the Chandra Mahal lies the 'Badal Mahal'. The Govind Devji Temple stands in the middle of the Chandra Mahal and the Badal Mahal. A delightful system of fountains is placed in the middle of the paved path between the Chandra Mahal and the Badal Mahal.  Another integral part of the palace complex is the Hawa Mahal of unusual architecture, standing away from the main complex.

Hawa Mahal – Palace of the Winds

Place : Jaipur, Rajasthan
Highlight : Its peculiar Architecture
Best time to visit : October to February
Timings : Open 0900 - 17 hrs.

Built in 1799, by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh the 'Hawa Mahal', Palace of the Wind, is one of the major landmarks of Jaipur. It is an integral part of the City Palace, an extension of the Zenana (women's chambers) standing away from the main complex. This five storey building of unusual architecture designed by Lal Chand Usta, is a stunning example of Rajput artistry made of red and pink sand stone, beautifully outlined with white borders and motif's painted with quick lime. The monument with a spectacular view of Jaipur city with road avenues, intersections and colourful crowds in the market, was originally conceived with the aim of enabling ladies of the royal household to watch the everyday life and royal processions in the city without being seen by others.

Its facade from the road side makes Hawa Mahal look more like a delicate screen than a palace. This five-story, pyramid-shaped structure has tier after tier of 953 small casements, each with tiny lattice worked (Jali) pink windows, small balconies and arched roofs with hanging cornices, exquisitely modeled and carved. These small windows circulate cool air (Hawa) even in hot months. The pyramidal outline is even throughout by cramming and multiplying casements; and uses repetition of motifs to enhance its beauty.

The entrance to Hawa Mahal is from the City Palace side, through a stately door which opens into a spacious courtyard. The courtyard has a double storeyed building on three sides. There is a small archeological museum here. Only the eastern wing has three more storeys above, which are just a single room thick. The building, standing on a high podium, is a fifty-foot high thin shield, less than a foot in thickness, with small intimate chambers , which give this palace its unique facade. There are no regular stairs to reach the upper floors, but only ramps.

Hawa Mahal which is currently under the supervision of the State archeological department provides the visitor with excellent views of the city. The best time to view Hawa Mahal is sunrise when sunlight through the latticed windows gives it a wonderful glow.

Jantar Mantar (Observatory).  It is literally known as 'Instruments for measuring the harmony of the heavens. It was built between 1728 to 1734 by Jai Singh.  Each instrument of this observatory is used for a particular function and gives an accurate reading. The differnt Yantras placed in clockwise at the observatory is narrated below. The Samrat Yantra  is a large sundial (the triangular structure) marked with hours and minutes.  The arc at the left side will show the time from sunrise to midday and the right side will show the time from midday to sunset. The time is read, where the shadow is sharpest. The sundials are constructed on latitude 27⁰ North. To adjust the reading to Indian standard Time (IST), between 1 minute 15 seconds to 32 minutes must be added according to the time of year and solar position.