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09/09/06

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Provanhall, Easterhouse, Townhead and Glasgow

The City of Glasgow was founded... (still to be finished).

Easterhouse is relatively new to the history of Glasgow, with the sprawling urban 'scheme' growing up around the old villages of Swinton and Easterhouse, spreading to BishopLoch, Provanhall and Garrowhill areas. For more information on the history of Easterhouse - click here.

Provanhall exists on the outskirts of Easterhouse and includes one of the oldest houses in Glasgow - Provanhall House built in the mid 15th Century. The new housing area was built from 1957 through to 1965, consisting of around 1000 family homes arranged in blocks of either 3 or 4 storey 'maissonnette' style units. There was a central area on Conisburgh Road with the Primary School and row of shops, several children's play areas (although the nearby countryside was the biggest play area) and a number of bus routes. The nearest pub was at least half an hour walk into Swinton. For more information on Provanhall - click here.

We moved from Provanhall to Townhead in late 1972, at a time when the social and living conditions in Provanhall were deteriorating - with violent neighbours moving in and higher unemployment. Townhead was going through a transformation with the older Victorian tenements being demolished and a modern housing estate being constructed. For more of the history and information on Townhead - click here.

 

Easterhouse

(Extracts from Trondra Local History Group, with additional historical input by Ian Macfarlane)

Legend has it that a pilgrim, doing penance for a sin, was made to carry a huge stone Eastwards from Glasgow. When he couldn’t carry it any more, he was to sit it down and build a church on that very spot. This became the site of the old Monkland church.

In the 12th Century, King Malcolm IV gave the land to the monks of Newbattle Abbey in Lothian – hence the name Monklands.

This area was chosen as the country seat of the Bishops of Glasgow. A palace was built for them on the shores of Bishop’s Loch in the 14th Century. An old charter mentions Manerium De Lacu Juxta Glasgu – the Manor of the Loch near Glasgow. Bishop Turnbull, the founder of the University of Glasgow may have lived there. The Bishop’s Palace disappeared during the Reformation. It was seized by the Duke of Chateherault, and in 1573 it was handed over to Boyd of Badenheath, who had it destroyed.

On Christmas Eve of 1446, Bishop John Cameron was sleeping in his palace on the shores of the loch. He was well known for his violence and his cruel and greedy treatment of the tenants on his estate. He woke to hear a voice calling him to appear ‘before the tribunal of Christ and give an account of his doings.’ Terrified, he called his servants to sit with him. The next time the voice spoke, they heard it too. It called to Cameron loudly a third time, and, ‘after a heavy groan, he was found dead in his bed, his tongue hanging out of his mouth.’

Village Life

Before the development of the housing scheme in the 1950’s, life in Greater Easterhouse was very different than it is there today.

The area had a cluster of small villages populated by the people who worked in the local industries of farming, mining, weaving and the canals.

Easterhouse village, known to locals as ‘the Holy Land’, was a mining village, with small cottages on either side of the street. Easterhouse Road was the heart of the village, with general stores and a bar, and even a piggery where Rogerfield now stands.

The village was a favourite place for children’s outings. The Co-op ran an annual trip for children from the South-side of Glasgow. They came in horse-drawn carts as far as Riddrie, and then a horse-drawn barge took them up the canal to Easterhouse for a picnic.

Sunday School children from Coatbridge arrived on hay wagons to play games and races in the fields surrounding the village. In winter, local people went curling and skating on Bishop Loch.

West Maryston and Swinton had a couple of shops, some run from dwelling houses. There was a pump in the middle of a field where people got their spring water. There were no wash houses, and people had to boil their clothes in a big iron pot on a brick fire to clean them. 

When rebuilding of the area started in the inter-war years, the authorities decided to run-down Easterhouse village. At this time, street lighting was being introduced and roads which didn’t get this were effectively condemned.

 

 

 

Glasgow Cathedral

 

 

 

 

 

 


Easterhouse Village


Swinton Cross

' There are few districts which combine so much of the attributes of country life with the bustle and stir of manufacturers; for the soil is dotted at every little distance with the villas of the aristocracy of Glasgow; with tall chimneys of coal works, with belts of thriving plantations and clumps of old wood, with orchards, grassy holms, or waving grain, and with the homely farm steading or lonely dwelling of the cotter…’
Ordinance Gazeteer of Scotland 1884.

Farming Lands

Much of Greater Easterhouse is built on old farmland. Several farms were either partially or completely taken over by the housing schemes that were built in the 1950’s. All that remains of most of them are their names, which were given to the new streets. You might still find clumps of trees which surrounded the farm houses today.

Farms on old maps include Easterhouse, Westerhouse, Nether House, Dungeonhill, Rogerfield, Greenwells, Commonhead, Wellhouse, Queenslie, Blackfriars, Provanhall, Lochwood and Lochgreen.

There was a farm in the grounds of Gartloch Hospital, as it was believed mental patients benefited from the theraputic effects of working there. It provided milk, butter, oatmeal, eggs and meat form its own abattoir to the hospital, and also later to the Royal Infirmary, the Southern General, and Barlinnie and Low Moss prisons.

Over 100 years ago the best farms had a four-year crop rotation. One year the farmer would grow potatoes, the next turnips, the next oats and then the last, wheat. Then the cycle would begin all over again.

Many of the farms owned livestock such as cattle or poultry. Imagine how the farmers must have felt watching the new housing estates creeping closer to their land? One poor man in the 1960’s had 100 of his hens stolen. They were found with their heads chopped off in a field the next day.

Amid the modern houses, there are still people farming the land in Greater Easterhouse today.

Weaving Industry

Over two hundred years ago flax was grown in the area for linen making. Some farms grew 20-30 acres of the crop a year. Swinton, West Maryston and Ballieston were thriving weaving villages. At Wellhouse Farm, strips of linen were laid out to bleach under the sun in the fields. The weavers would then carry the heavy rolls of linen on their shoulders to Glasgow. Flax growing died out around 150 years ago, when cotton became more common.

Coal Mining

Coal has been mined in Easterhouse for hundreds of years. The monks of Newbattle Abbey were given much of the land in what is now Greater Easterhouse in the 12th Century by King Malcom IV. They were amongst the earliest coal miners in Scotland.

250 years ago, coal ‘cropped out, or became exposed here. It was because the coal seams were so close to the surface that the district was one of the first to mine coal in Scotland. At that time, miners would have worked in cramped conditions in Bell Pits.

Coal Mining became a major local industry in 1790 with the opening of the Monkland Canal. It could then be sent to Glasgow, rather than just catering for local needs. Old maps show around 30 pits around Ballieston at that time. Coal was also mined at Dungeonhill, Provanhall and Bishop Loch. The industry brought a new population to the district, many coming from Ireland to work in the pits.

In 1962, when the Corporation were building houses in Westerhouse Road, they struck coal.
For 3 weeks people helped themselves!

The Monkland Canal

In 1769 magistrates in Glasgow had to find a way to transport coal to the city from the East. They decided to build a waterway. They allocated the job to James Watt who invented the Steam Engine. Ten mil

Barges carrying coal and steel were running daily into the city. Its profits grew after 1825 when the great iron works at Calder, Gartsherrie, Dundyvan and Langloan were built.

In 1807 passengers were ferried along the canal in boats drawn by horses. For over 160 years barges used the canal. It was closed to shipping in 1952. 

The Monkland Canal became known as ‘The Killer Canal’. Many people drowned there through the years. In May 1964 work began filling in the canal at a cost of £300,000. The canal is now part of the M8 motorway which opened on June 1973.

Development of the Housing Schemes - Late 1950's 

Housing has always been a controversial subject in Easterhouse. When the schemes opened, people coming from the old tenements were delighted with their new homes, especially their indoor toilets! Easterhouse was a highly desirable option to families living in the cramped single-ends of the inner city. Its two-bedroomed flats were very spacious, and the experience was promoted as ‘like living in the country’. People had to earn a certain amount before even being considered for a house in the area. But the joy of these modern luxuries soon wore thin for many, as little consideration was given be planners to the needs of the new residents. 

Easterhouse became internationally known for its poor housing and lack of amenities. Billy Connolly called such housing schemes as ‘deserts wi’ windaes’. Many tenants in Greater Easterhouse are still living in the houses that were constructed by the council in the 1950’s.

At this time, there were few local amenities. There were no supermarkets, and residents bought food and provisions for their families at the small local grocery stores. The proposed shopping centre at Bogbain and Shandwick Street was delayed for years because of coal seems supposedly underneath it. This wasn't constructed until the early 1970's.

Even when the population of the scheme rose to 60,000, there was still no police station.

New housing, both public and private, is being built all over Greater Easterhouse today to replace the old buildings that are rapidly decaying. More changes are ahead, following the vote to proceed with Glasgow’s housing stock transfer. Whatever happens, the lucky residents who get flats in the new schemes are delighted.                                                            

   Our House Style        

Gartloch Hospital 

Gartloch Hospital was situated on the Gartloch Road near the village of Gartcosh. “Gart” in old scots means a Garden. The name probably arose because the estate had extensive gardens near Bishop’s Loch.

In 1889 the City of Glasgow bought Gartloch Estate for nearly £8,600. Here the Glasgow District Lunacy Board built an asylum. In 1896 the first patients were admitted.

A tuberculosis sanitorium was opened in 1902 and closed after World War II. During the War, Gartloch was transformed into an Emergency Medical Services hospital. Psychiatric patients were transferred to other hospitals and a number of “temporary” hutted wards built.

Mental Health Care in the Nineteenth Century with the straight jacket. When Gartloch Asylum opened in 1889, treatment for mental health problems was very different than what it is now. There are records of patients being treated with ‘purgitives, bleeding of the temples with leeches, shaving of the head and cold applications to the head.’ 

 

When Gartloch joined the National Health Service in 1948 it was placed under the Board of Management for Glasgow North-Eastern Mental Hospitals. When the Greater Glasgow Health Board was created in 1974 Gartloch was placed within the Eastern District. From 1993 Gartloch was under the Greater Glasgow Community and Mental Health Services NHS Trust. Gartloch Hospital closed in 1996.

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Provanhall

Provanhall House

Provanhall may be the oldest house in Glasgow. It was built in the mid 15th Century, around the same time as Provand’s Lordship. 

Bishop William Turnbull was the founder of Glasgow University. Provanhall House may have been built for him.

At that time, Glasgow was divided up into 32 prebends, or areas, by the Church. Prebends were given to Canons of Glasgow Cathedral for their upkeep. The prebend of Barlanark was the only one without a church building, so it had to find other ways of making money. The estate, which ran from Springburn to Bishop Loch and from Shettleston to Garthamlock, was 5000 acres. Funds were raised from the estate, as people came from all over to hunt and fish on the best lands in Central Scotland.

In 1491, King James IV became a Canon of Glasgow Catherdral, and the prebend of Provan fell to him. He was a keen huntsman, and must have enjoyed hunting in the Bishop’s Forest surrounding Provanhall.

Who Lived at Provanhall House?

After the death of James IV, the prebend of Provan passed to the Baillie families. Ballieston is probably named after them.

One of the Baillie’s Sir William, was a close friend of Mary Queen of Scot’s. She visited Provanhall House while her husband, Lord Darnley was ill in St Nicholas’ Hospital in Provand’s Lordship.

In 1593 the lands passed to Elizabeth Baillie, who married into the Hamilton family. In 1644, Robert Hamilton became the owner, and it is his initials you can see above the courtyard gate.

Robert was a Royalist, and suffered for his cause as, over the years, he struggled to keep the house. In 1667, he had to sell Provanhall to Glasgow Town Council.

In 1760, the estate came to Dr John Buchanan, a ship’s surgeon related to James Buchanan, the 10th President of the USA. Through marriage, it was passed to brothers Reston and William Mather, who were known for their beautiful gardens and wild parties! They both died in 1934 with no relatives to leave the house.

 

Provanhall was put up for sale, and was eventually bought and renovated by a group of local people. They donated the house to the National Trust for Scotland.

Glasgow City Council now maintains the buildings and grounds.

 

Provanhall Area - 1960's to 1970's

To be added.

 

 

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